A Landscape and History
in the Sobrarbe's region.
Village of the province of Huesca, capital
of the region of Sobrarbe. It has around 800 inhabitants. Its
height is of 589 meters on the level of the sea. It's from Huesca 118
kilometers. Its inhabitans are named: ainsetanos.
It is necessary to arrive at the heart
of the landscape and of history. The route is deeply evocative, from
Huesca to Barbastro and from Barbastro to El
Grado. Moreover, Naval, Abizanda, Samitier,
Mediano submerged in waters, ..... The legendary kingdom of Sobrarbe
is opened in an ample panoramic, with its seventy towns grouped in twenty
municipalities. "The name of Sobrarbe -explain the historians-,
must to that this region was on the mountain range of Arbe, extended
from the banks of the Cinca river to Alquézar ". On (sobre,
encima) Arbe, then, to arrive at the definitive contraction
of Sobrarbe (sobre Arbe)
But it is verified that the landscape
and history is not enough to retain the men, because the zone lost inhabitants
of alarming way. As much, that the density of population got to reach
hardly the three inhabitants by Km2. Nevertheless, L'Ainsa is in the
top, on triumphant rocks, in the confluence of the Cinca and
Ara rivers, the second tributary of first river, contemplating
like the waters are based on an interminable kiss, languid and deep,
like running of the centuries. La Aínsa, with article ahead,
because this is the correct toponymy, or well L'Aínsa, in attention
to that fabla (region languague) still conserves in the place
a small redoubt.
Two streets and one singular square, next
to the castle, give life to the primitive urban central area that presides
over the magnificent and huge landscape, framed in the horizon that
close majestic the summits of Peña Montañesa, or Las Tres
Sorores, or the Tres Marías, or the mountain range of the
Tucas. It depends on the direction that one chooses, because
Aínsa is the center that radiates around to be multiplied in
routes that without a doubt will tempt the traveller: Bielsa
and Pineta, Plan and San Juan de Plan (Gistaín
or Gistau), valley of Benasque (by Foradada del Toscar,
the gigantic shade of Monte Perdido like bottom), Boltaña,
Broto, Biescas, in the denominated Pyrenees route that
includes the national park of Ordesa.
It is said that it is the old capital
of the legendary kingdom of Sobrarbe. The one of legendary is
because of this fact it has only stayed as testimony the legend of San
Juan de la Peña, and moreover, the modern historians put in doubt
the existence of this kingdom. The case is that, according to the legend
of San Juan de la Peña, García Jiménez (or Garci Ximénez)
was named the first king of Sobrarbe, and as such he decided
to attack the Moors in La Aínsa. This is the story that offers
to us Jose Augusto Sanchez Pérez in his book "The kingdom of
Aragón":
García, to the front of his 300
soldiers, fell by surprise on Aínsa, taking advantage of the
shades at night, and to the following morning he harangued his troops
and assured to them that the Divine Providence was of his part by to
have seen a cross on an oak tree, ordered to them that you would implorasen
to God and San John the Baptist and was sent with them to new incursions
by the next towns and to fortify the city of Aínsa, declaring it capital
of the kingdom of Sobrarbe. To this tradition it must that in
the shield of Sobrarbe exists the Red Cross on an oak, and that,
since it shall be seen more ahead, this will be one of the quarters
of the historical shield of Aragón. García Jiménez reigned
from year 716 until he died in 758, and never he used the title of king
of Aragón, although he has had historians who have affirmed it.
He was buried in the sanctuary of San Juan de la Peña".
The cross of Sobrarbe is offered
in monument form, to two Kms. of the population. Aínsa appears
mentioned, historically, in 1055; nevertheless, its true historical
documentation begins with the law of the repopulation granted by Alfonso
the Fighting in 1124. The primitive castle also dates of this same time,
although soon was extended with a fortress of principles of century
XVI. Among its owners it is necessary to write down to Beltrán de
Labarsa, Pelegrín de Castellazol and Berenguer de Atienza,
between years 1135 and 1190. Since century XIII the population experienced
an extraordinary splendor and received such privileges as Jaca, for
this reason became head of of Sobrarbe, with Boltaña like
its village.
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Guitart Aparicio offers the following
description to us: "Walled Village and excellently located, it had category
of fortress from the last years of the reign of Felipe II, with
object to defend the Pyrenees border of the irruptions of French. A
document of 1593 registers the presence of the Italian engineer Tiburcio
Spanocci -designer of the citadel of Jaca and the barrier of the
Aljafería of Saragossa-, that visited Aínsa and Benasque
by order of Alonso de Vargas, general of Felipe II. Thus
it arose the great fortress that we see, at the cost of demolishing
sixty houses of the village, and it was finished in 1610, judging by
the testimony of Labaña.
Down, in the plain, the traveller find
the modern central area of the Aínsa, where rise the buildings
of apartments and open the stores for tourists, with its doors wide.
In summer it seems a beach place. Up, in the crag, the oldcentral area
forms a monumental joint with the singular fortress. They are, then,
two urban central areas perfectly differentiated. In the height dominates
still the history and the art, with the parade ground of the castle
that marks the direction of huge greater square- the Spain one-, one
of oldest of the country that has portico, with porches of romanesque-gothic
style. The stone buildings sing the eternal poem of the times. In the
Consistorial House the access arc is opened to the high street. By another
of the angles the romanesque tower of the parochial church of Santa
Maria de Bull is shown, the old colegiata. The singular historical-artistic
collection -declared thus in 1965- is offered recovered by the General
Directorate of Architecture, according to the study and direct supervision
of Francisco Pons Sorolla.
Two streets trim the square: the one of
Gonzalo I and the one of Santa Cruz. In its confluence
there is a little square that receives the name of the Salvador.
They are still the arcs of the Escalereta (little stairs) and
the Hospital, in addition to already mentioned to the Greater
square, and the vestibules of Fontela, Abajo (Down) and
Afuera (Outside). There is another one, next to the castle. The
church was consecrated in 1181. Its construction began at the end of
century XI and concluded in second half of the XII. At 30 of March of
year 1974 was made the consecration of the greater altar and crypt,
first in honor of Santa Maria, and the second, to Santa Cruz.
In addition to crypt, has a great interest the cloister, where the Romanesque and gothic styles
are conjugated in its total purity. All the historical-artistic
joint deserves a good attention. The description cannot replace, in
this case, whatever the reality shows.
La Aínsa celebrates dances of
"the Morisma", dedicated a the celebration of Santa Cruz,
the 14 of September. It is a singular dance, different from whatever
exists in Aragón, that keeps great similarity with those from
the Valencian kingdom in its representations of Moors and Christians.
Even with influence of the classic ones of shepherds, in the spectacle
appear the same king Garci Jiménez, the general Moor, the queen
Moor and the Christian queen. They do not lack, as it is logical, the
rabadán (foreman) and the mayoral (another foreman), in
addition to the sin, ally of Lucifer, and the angel. The battle against
the Moors is narrated, in whom Garci Jiménez saw a light in the
sky, and appear in the text the villages of the old Sobrarbe,
such as Labuerda, San Vicente, El Pueyo, La
Fueba, Banastón, Araguás, Cagigosa, Labayo and Montpellier.
It is pretended, in a battle, the conquest of the castle, and a shepherd
announces that he starts off to Jaca and San Juan de la Peña
to communicate the victory to Christians.
The maneuvers of the battle is long, with intervention of two armies and its generals to horse. Ainsa celebrates annually, from the 13 to the 17 of September, its celebrations in honor to the Exaltación of Santa Cruz. But all occasion is good to justify the visit.
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